In early June, French Alpinist Mathieu Maynadis and Pakistan’s Muizzuddinn were pioneering a new route up the East Ridge of Spantik (7,027 m), locally known as Golden Peak, in the Karakoram area.
The increase that took place from June 2 to 7, the first major mountain opening in Pakistan was led by a local climber. The new 1,800 m route, called “Zindabad (Long Live)”, is classified M5 A1 at an 80 ° slope. It is expected to be one of the summer’s most notable increases in the country.
The duo spent 20 days acclimatizing in the base camp and waiting for 10 days of bad weather before establishing higher camps of 5,200 m and 5,800 m. Despite the risk, they utilized a weather opening, sustained fresh snow and unstable plates over five days. Just meters that are shy for the summit, they aborted due to a dangerous wind plate, but celebrated the completion of the routes as a symbol of national pride.
Their descent took 36 hours via the normal route with a last bivuac of 5,800 m. For Muizz, this performance is the first phase of a wider goal: to become Pakistan’s first Uiagm certified mountain guide.
Muizz plans to start his training in France this summer. If successful, he will be certified in 2029 and aims to help revive domestic guide programs and training schools in Pakistan.
Spantik has a respected history of technical increases, especially the French -Lawful ascent in 2000 of its northern face “Golden Pillar”. Maynadis, already a spokesman for Pakistani alpinism, have achieved several first ascensions and ski descent in the region.
